Solarization in Dark Room

There are two kinds of solarization solarization on photo paper and on film. The second principle is the same solarization, ie expose-expose-develop-develop. Exposé is the process of shooting first or irradiation at the time of printing. Film or photo paper must terexpose image was developed in order to arise. At develop the paper / film is still sensitive to light, if the paper / film that has terdevelop expose us again with some more light and was developed whose names will appear the effect of solarization.
Solarization can not be done if the paper / film is difixer, because the paper / film is no longer light sensitive.


Here's a brief description of solarization.

Print solarization (on photo paper):
-Do a test print as usual, having gained exposure time, expose the paper and then develop during the total time.

-Move the paper from the developer into the tray containing clean water, about 1 minute agitation. Lift and remove water with a sponge absorbing water that attach to the surface of the photograph.

-Expose the second can be done with the lights dimmed. Light intensity and exposure time on the second requires a trial to find a suitable time and intensity. Exposé can be done with an enlarger dimmed (diaphragm small set).

-Develop more papers during the total time and then stopbath and fixer as usual.
Solarization-Print can be part of the way cover (dodging) the part that does not want disolarisasi with pieces of paper cut like objects. Another way by applying a fixer solution using a brush on the parts that do not want disolarisasi after diexpose rinse again with water so that developers can work (not too contaminated fixer).

I rarely print solarization for the tendency of all tone becomes darker, the whites do not exist (gray) and it is impossible to make two prints are identical solarization.
Solarization films have a better result (I think) and solarization of the film can be printed each print is identical, only more difficult (by people) and the results are grainyness. Likelihood of success-failure are 50-50, so I better do solarization senamg repro results from slide film. Solarization technique that I use film I found in an article in Popular Photography magazine in 1993 (if not wrong, now magazine already lost). Developers who used Kodak Dektol (I do not know why it is recommended to use a paper developer Dektol yamg, perhaps in order to obtain fine-grain or labihjelas Sabatiernya effect?) At temperatures around 35-38 Celsius with developing time about 10 minutes.

Film solarization:
-Develop the film as usual with Kodak Dektol Stock Calcius sollution at 35-38 for 5-6 minutes, agitation as usual you are doing.

-Remove the developer, the contents of the tube with Ilford wetting agent or Kodak Photo Flo, agitation for 30 seconds waste solution (do not use anymore because it is contaminated), repeat once more. This stage is important so that the second does not expose any residual developer who can lead the party-belonteng.

-In a state of total darkness darkroom tube and remove the film from the reel, turn on the safe light, expose the film for 8-12 seconds. Safelight I use is Kaiser Duka 50 with the intensity set at 10 (max 50) diexpose from a distance of about 150 cm, for ordinary safelight should be coated again so much fainter 50% or more than usual.

-Turn off Safelight (totak dark again), put the movie back on the reel and the tubes then continue the process of develop until the time reaches 10 minutes, stopbath and fixer as usual. Developers should not be used anymore (was contaminated wetting agent).

Tips (for solarization film):
Use a fine-grain films like Kodak Tmax 100, Ilford Delta 100 or Ilfordpan Plus 50, because the result would grainyness solarization.
At the photo shoot or repro bracket began +2 -3 stop until stop.
Be careful at the second exposure, because the wet film and developer are quite warm, the film becomes more easily scratched.
In my experience, developer temperature and process time is not too critical (so I wrote a temperature 35-38 and took about 10 minutes, after all, why should be considered if we are sure to get the movie over-all)
Get ready for printing with variable contrast paper and filters split technique
Use a fine grain developer that is, avoid the kind of developer Minigrain, Superbrom, MF Micro, Pro BW and the like.

Examples of solarization film can be seen in the two photos that I upload in the lotus FN.
If you have questions, criticisms or comments, can be raised at the forum, it might be up for discussion.

Good luck.